Hiroko Masuike/The New York Times
SOPHIE THEALLET A two-tone wool pullover tucked into a pleated wool skirt.
Marilynn K. Yee/The New York Times
MICHAEL KORS A cropped fox jacket over a draped silk jersey tunic and pajamas.
Marilyn K. Yee/The New York Times
VERA WANG A fox-lined twill jacket, a pleated wool flannel skirt and stretch pants.
Michael Kors, celebrating 30 years in business, reprised his feelings for the ’70s, disco and nubile women in halters and charmeuse pajamas, on a recreated sidewalk on Wednesday at Lincoln Center. A few of the caftans and jersey outfits looked like Halston, but then, in the blur of the years, a lot of things do.
In the main, though, the show was pure Kors, with lean gray trousers and coats over bodysuits slashed to the navel, and minimalist tunics and knits in multiple flesh and bronzer tones, as well as pinks. A hooded cape in black melton over a wool mini-shift, with black boots, was adorable, and Mr. Kors usually found something to throw a fur over.
Next to the girls in their beaded bodysuits and silvery platforms, the male models looked like obliging valet studs. It was fun. “Native New Yorker” played. Mr. Kors sells happiness and a good time, like a Broadway show for the entire family. Which hit the sidewalk immediately afterward, with Anna Wintour at a sprint followed by her bodyguards. Honk if you love a bodyguard.
Meanwhile, on Park Avenue, all was snug in the world of Oscar de la Renta; opulent, too, in its offering of Eastern textures. The models, under fox-brimmed hats, were decked out in metallic florals and gold-bullion embroidered jackets. The details were impressive, surely a vote for a rising Dow, and even if one longed for a pair of plain tweed trousers, Mr. de la Renta was wise to look to a wider world, where his clientele resides.
Besides, many pieces were great theater, something he can get away with. One dress that stood out was a silver-fringed mini dress with a white feather skirt, another was a column in madras chiffon. But for sheer pleasure, there was a long ivory shearling coat with black Moroccan crewelwork. He showed it over a mountain of New York silver-gray tulle.
Narciso Rodriguez’s show, on Tuesday, was terrific — a needed departure for him. The clothes were looser, more abstract, with a downbeat attitude that felt true and fresh. Although collaged chiffon dresses looked appealing, the real magic in the collection came from the masculine checks and charcoal trouser suits and coats. What might not be obvious is that Mr. Rodriguez cut the plaids and reset the squares, giving the pattern a subtle depth.